Beer of the Day: Allagash Fluxus: 2011 - French-Style Farmhouse Ale (Biere de Garde)

Well now, I don't often shell out $22 for a bottle of beer (or any money for any bottles for that matter), but I paid for this one and I think I might even go back for a couple more before they are gone - it was that good. I like the lighter more crisp and delicate style of the Farmhouse Ales. It's easy to drink, doesn't weigh you down with a lot of maltiness and at 8%abv it's not too heavy, which can make me a bit sleepy of course if I drink too fast.
This brew is a bit on the medium-dark side for color, has a great aroma of malti-goodness, but flows across the palate smooth, crisp and refreshing, with just a touch of yeastiness and balanced hopiness; the finish is smooth with some nuttiness and a balanced level of hops that is neither too bitter or lacking. Overall the balance on the beer was quite well done, the combination of subtle fruit and malt, mixed with the refreshing clean style from the lagering makes for a great drinking beer.
My only issue is that at $22 it's pricey, but that's Allagash and that's what you pay for good beer! 3/3 Well Done!

Wine of the Day - Cava LLopart Brut Nature Gran Reserva Leopardi, 2000

Here we have a winery that has been producing wines since the 1880s, or so. This is a delicious wine with subtle style that may throw off those looking for a more powerful expression in sparkling wine. Part of the style is due to the fact that the wine I was tasting was vintage 2000, which I am told is current release.
Cava hails from Spain and most quality Cava will be from Catalonia. Cava is also regulated for production method and is done in teh methode traditional, teh same as Champagne, which is a double feremet with the seconary ferment done in the bottle. Typically Cava will be higher quality and with more complexity than with simple Prosecco or other sparkling wines. As with any category though you will have better and pooere examples; Llopart is of the former.

This wine is a blend of Macabeo 40%, Xarel·lo 40%, Parellada 10%, Chardonnay 10%, and spends a miinimum of 48 months elevage, or aging in the bottle.
I found the wine to have s surprisingly fersh noew iwth hints of ginger and spice, with sold bold nuances; on the palate the wine is juicy and carries rich ripe flavors but is backed by a good line of stoney minerality underneath; the finish is layered and lingers for some time adding to the enjoyment factor. 2/3. Retail about $25/750mL.

2011-12-12 - Milbrandt Vineyards, Eastern Washington

Kelley Milbrandt was recently in to review her family wines with me. We tasted through the selection below, but a few notes on the winery:
• Mildbrandt Wines started as growers in Eastern Washington, planting vineyards in 1997, then they began bottling their own label in 2007
• They are still large suppliers to a number of Washington State wineries, including Ste Michelle Estates, where 50% of their production goes
• Gordon Hill is their winemaker, formally at NorthStar and CSM

The Wines:
Milbrandt Riesling Traditional Range, 2009
1.4% RS. Clean and fresh with easy acid on the palate, light fruit on the palate as well with just a hint of sweetness, good length. Approx $10.00 retail. Pretty wine overall, 1+/3

Milbrandt Pinot Gris Traditional Range, 2009
Lean and clean, a bit lighter ion the palate with striking focus, good chalky feel, fresh elegant finish, dry with length. Approx $10.99 retail. 1+/3

Milbrandt Chardonnay Traditional Range, 2010
This vintage includes the ‘Estate” tier win, which is 50/50 FO and SS. Sourced from more southerly vineyard holdings which add tropical fruit components (at least that was what Kelley described). Touch of leesy wine flavors, good acid for a chard making a fresh styled wine with a bit of appley flavors, hint of oak, finishes light and clean. Approx $10.99 retail. 1++/3

Milbrandt Syrah Traditional Range, 2007
Smokey red fruits on the nose, fresh fruit that is showing progress in the freshness, round raspberry flavors, very soft on the palate, showing some grip but the finish shows that the wine is fading. Approx $14.99 retail. 1/3

Milbrandt Merlot Traditional Range, 2008
15% CS, 1% Ma, 1%Barbera. Dark red /cherry color, round and deep cherry flavors, a little dusty and really soft on the palate, lacks a bit of acid, but good, dusty cocoa flavors on the finish. Approx $14.99 retail. 2/3

Milbrandt Cabernet Sauvignon Traditional Range, 2008
Dark red garnet in color, touch of smoke, dark cherry and plum in the nose, med+ dry with grip through the finish, dark flavors, bit dry with tannins but good structure. Approx $14.99 retail. 1+/3

Milbrandt Malbec Estate Range, 2008
Violet red in color, big ripe fruit aromas with dark berry and black brambly fruit notes, touch of wood on the nose as well, very soft on the palate, good grip, fruit and balance, actually fresh style with some tannins. Sees a combo of Fr/Hung/Am oak, 50% of which is new, for 14-18 months. Approx $22.99 retail. 2/3

Milbrandt Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Range, 2008
Dark, almost purpley red in color, big ripe fruit aromas with dark berries and rich plum and blackberry notes; soft and juicy on the palate with good acid and grip plus a length of spice and wood tannins adding to the deep flavors. Sees a combo of Fr/Hung/Am oak, 50% of which is new, for 14-18 months. Approx $22.99 retail. Quite Good 2/3

Farmer Fizz with Terry: 21 Champagne Notes

Today I had the opportunity to taste through the Terry Theise portfolio of Grower Champagne, otherwise known as “Farmer Fizz”. Terry was on hand for the event and was able to share a few words with him – more on non-wine relate things rather than the specific wines, but I did enjoy this tasting and found some truly outstanding products.

Grower Champagne is interesting. It has taken me sometime to really come around to appreciate that, not so much because the wines are lacking in any way – they are not – but more because I am always cautious of trendy things and these wines became very trendy a few years back, not due in any small way to Terry’s reputation and connections. The end of a trend is usually a good thing, but when the trend continues to rock and engage more and more participants, then it just becomes a way, or the way. Terry’s portfolio is here to stay and these wines are now part of the landscape.

Tasting 21 wines in a row and seeing the progression of blends, styles and regional effect is one of the best ways to really grasp why these wines are interesting, why they are different. I am always a fan of comparative tastings where the differences can be appreciated and the nuance of terroir can really be felt. Tasting a wine in solo can be a great experience, but tasting in company is educational.

Below I have highlighted the wines that I tasted today along with the basic point system I use of rating wines out of three, with +’s as a slight modifier. Hopefully this helps you on your holiday quest for great Champagne, no matter what time of the year. As a note, most of these wines were bottled within the past six to eight months, but there are a few that had been bottled earlier, usually with good results. I would suggest though that whenever buying Champagne that the dosage date be a strong consideration for selection. Champagne is almost always better when fresher (unless the intent was for purposely aged wine), typically are bottled once a year in preparation for the upcoming holiday season (often end of Spring or early Summer) and should be questioned if there is no date given. I believe most Champagne producers will be adding dosage dates to their labels in the future. You can assume that if there is no date then the producer may not have the interest of the consumer in their sights, and I would move on.
Technical notes are from the TT catalogue)

We started in the Cote des Blancs…

Pierre Péters Cuvée Réserve, nv
(100% Chardonnay, based on the 2008 vintage with a solera reserve, 95% malolactic ferment followed by 24 mos en triage, 6.7g/L dosage.) Delicate floral and fruit aromas on the nose, touch of ginger spice and yellow apple, good acidity but very soft, smooth dry finish. 1/3

Pierre Péters Cuvée Special ‘Les Chetillons’, 2004
(100% Chardonnay, a single vineyard wine from Les Mesnil known as ‘Les Chantillons’, full malolactic ferment with 6 years en triage, 4.7g/L dosage.) Rich, full nose with round apple aromas, crisp mousse with full flavors on the palate, gaining richness and a very long deeply flavored, balanced finish. Very good 2/3

Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Brut ‘Selection Belles Annees’, nv
(A non-vintage version of the cuvee Gastronome, produced with lower than normal atmospheric pressure (4.5°atm) to expand versatility with food.) Rich and flavorful, but with elegance and restraint, pleasant apple and baked spices on the palate with crisp acidity and a fresh, clean finish which is juicy with acidity. 2/3

Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Brut Blanc de Blancs ‘Fleuron’, 2005
(100% Chardonnay – 23% Cramant Grand Cru, 45% Chouilly Grand Cru, 8% Oger Grand Cru, 24% Cuis 1er Cru, 5 years en triage, 6g/L dosage.) Very supple and smooth with a creamy texture that makes it seem almost sweet and more full, long and smooth on the finish. Quite Good 2+/3

Varnier-Fannière Brut Grand Cru, nv
(100% Chardonnay from Grand Cru villages of Cramant, Oger, and Avize, based on 2008 vintage with reserve wine from 2007, 2 years en triage and 10g/L dosage.) Big nose with rich creamy style on the palate, flavors of ginger and Asian spice, young and fresh with juicy acid, long creamy finish. 2/3

Then we moved to the Vallée de la Marne…

René Geoffroy Cuvvée Volupté, 2006
(80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir produced without malo and raised predominantly in foudre, with 6% in tank, produced all from Cumières, 48 mos en triage, 2g/L dosage.) Really big nose with winey notes, very creamy on the palate with great acid/fruit balance, bone dry and really well balanced through the finish. This is a very good, well-made wine worth more consideration 2+/3

René Geoffroy Rosé de Saignée Brut, nv
(100% Pinot Noir produced with the saignée method from what will be the still wine of the house under the AC Coteaux Champenois, all from 2008, aged in neutral wood and SS for 18 mos, with 10g/L dosage.) Spicy bright nose with tangy raspberry aromas, big and fresh on the palate with great feel, delicate red fruits like cherry carry through the finish which has some chalkiness. Quite Good 2+/3

Gaston Chiquet Brut ‘Tradition’, nv
(35% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 45% Pinot Meunier from 1er Cru villages of Dizy, Hautvillers, and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, based on 2007, 3 years en triage and 8g/L of dosage.) Spicy nose, touch of bread/biscuit aromas too, clean and fresh on the palate with a lovely feel, juicy and dry on the finish. Very Good 1+/3

Gaston Chiquet Cuvée de Réserve, nv
(Similar cuvee to the ‘Tradition’, but the Réserve is based on 2004 and received 5 years en triage.) Ginger to almost cedar notes in the aroma, creamy and deep flavors on the palate with some autolysis or bready aromas, fuller and weightier than many other wines. Great style, loved this 2+/3

Gaston Chiquet Vintage Champagne Brut, 2003
(60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, from 1er Cru villages Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Dizy and Hautvillers plus Grand Cru village of Aÿ, 6 years n triage, 8/L dosage.) Delicate and sleek nose with elegant ape aromas, creamy and dry on the palate with bold flavors of ripe red fruits and an intense, chalk dryness through the finish. Quite good, fuller wine 2+/3

Henri Goutorbe Cuvée’Prestige’, nv
(70% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Meunier from 1er Cru villages Cumières, Hautvillers, Bisseuil, and Grand Cru village Aÿ, based on 2005 with 4 years en triage and 9.6g/L dosage.) Round, full nose with just a slight touch of oxidation (this wine had been bottled 1.5 years ago), creamy and soft mousse with great persistence and a long crisp finish. 2/3

Henri Goutorbe Special Club, 2002
(70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay exclusively from Grand Cru village of Aÿ, 8 years en triage with 9.6g/L dosage.) Creamy and rich, red fruits start to take over on the palate, but crisp and delicious, a deep feel and flavor intensity that carries through the finish, very well. 2+/3

Henri Gourtobe Rosé, nv
(25% Chardonnay, 75% Pinot Noir from 2007 blended with some Pinot Noir rouge from 2006, sourced from Grand Cru village of Aÿ, 3 years en triage and a dosage of 9.6g/L (I like consistency).) Pretty nose with berries and fresh clear aromas, creamy and the palate, full flavors, smooth mousse and texture that carries through the finish. Quite nice, delicate 2/3

And on to the Montagne de Reims…

A. Margains Extra Brut, nv
(100% Chardonnay, entirely from 2001 harvest and the village of Villers-Marmery, 25% of the blend was raised in neutral barrel.) Pronounced nose, with round flavors of apples and nutmeg and bright almost apricot and citrus, bone-dry, chalky, and delicate on the finish with lingering hints of lemon and chalk. Very good, indeed 2/3

A. Margains Traditionelle Demi-Sec, nv
(90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, sourced from Villers-Marmery, based on the 2008 vintage with almost half coming from reserve wines from ’07, ’05, ’04, ’00, partial malo and fermented in SS, 27 mos en triage, with 33g/L dosage.) Quite fresh aromatically, and almost glycerous on the palate, definitely rich but ultimately finishes dry due to the racy acid. Quite Good 1++/3

Chartogne-Taillet Brut ‘Cuvée Ste-Anne’, nv
(60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir based on 2007 vintage with 20% coming from ’06 and ’05, 10 mos sur lie in SS, with 3 years en triage and 4.5g/L dosage.) Round and full aromatically, but with a restraint that is almost delicate, apple and some tangy cherry notes, crisp clean and tangy through the finish which is complex and tangy. 1/3

Chartogne-Taillet ‘Cuvée Fiacre, 2004
(60% Chardonnay from Chemin de Reims vineyard and 40% Pinot Noir from 50+ year old vines in the parcel Les Orizeaux.) Ginger, bread and yeasty aromas, med+ flavors but intense on the palate with bold flavors of apple and bread and tangy sour dough, quite persistent through the finish. Quite good 2+/3

Aubry Brut, nv
(45% Pinot Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 5% ancient varieties, 45% 2008 vintage, 55% reserve wines from a solera composed of 1999 through 2007 vintage with 24 months en triage.) Crisp and snappy bready aromas, balanced and fresh with acid and fruit, quite tangy and balanced through the finish. Delicious 2/3

Henri Billiot Cuvée Laetitia, mv
(A perpetual solera composed of vintages from 1983 through 2007 with a cépage that is predominantly Pinot Noir with chardonnay, 30 months en triage with 8g/L dosage.) Spicy nose with Asian aromas, tangy Belgian beer flavors of banana and Asian spice, exotic and a bit perfumed, perhaps too much for me, but pretty interesting wine. 1+/3

Henri Billiot Rosé, nv
(Cuvée is 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay with the addition of Pinot Noir base wine from ’05 and ’04.) Orangy-pink color, strawberry, cream and basil in the nose, very delicate flavors with a dry finish, chalky even, but very clean on the end. Good 1+/3

Vilmart & Cie Grand Cellier, nv
(70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, sourced from 2 parcels – les Hautes Grèves and Basses Grèves, based on the ’08 vintage with reserve wine from ’07, ’06, 10 mos in large oak casks followed by 2 years en triage, 10g/L dosage.) Smokey and full-ish nose, apples, biscuits, nutmeg, creamy on the palate with a touch of round sweetness almost showing through on the palate, finished with great texture and a long-ish finish. Quite Good 2+/3

Champagne Tasting Notes: Transatlantic Bubbles

Today I had the opportunity to taste through a number of Champagne being imported by Transatlantic Bubble with owner Mike Carleton. The focus of the portfolio is smaller grower producers (look for the RM sign on the bottles), who work smaller plots and usually will grow fruit to sell to larger firms and also to make their own wines. There are literally thousands of growers in the Chanpagne regions and many make small to midland amounts of wine. The disparity in the producers I tasted today in production size ran from Marguet at 80,000 bottles to Laval who makes about 7,000 bottles, total, that's it!

The wines all showed very well and I used a basic 3 point system to award points (I do this when tasting a number of wines as it allows me to return to my notes and quickly see what I liked). This is also a basic guide for finding your favorites.

Many of these wines - especially the mags - are imported in very small amounts and as such will be almost non-existant in the general market. Producers such as Laval make so little wine that many bottles simply will end up with collectors. If you can find these wines, buy them. They are fairly priced and exhibit great quality across the range.

Bereche et Fils Champagne Brut Reserve (Montagne de Reims) nv
(RM) Pale; tasty aromas with some hint of weight and red fruits in the nose; delicate and juicy onteh palate; soft flavors and a creamy mousse and light, delicate finish. 2+/3
Approx $45.00 retail


Marguet Pere & Fils Champagne Brut Reserve Grand Cru (Ambonnay/ Montagne de Reims) nv
(NM) 50Ch/50Pn – 100% Grand Cru fruit. Deeper nose with toast and apple; smooth on the palate with juicy fruit flavors, clean and just a touch of oxidation with some toast. 2/3
Approx $50.00 retail


Laherte Freres Champagne Brut Tradition (Chavot/Côte des Blancs and Vallée de la Marne) nv
(NM) 60PM/30Ch/10Pn. Ripe nose with deep apple and plum fruits, touch of oxygen ; crisp and snappy bubble, but clean and good chalky finish. 2+/3
Approx $50.00 retail


George Laval Champagne Brut Nature 1er Cru (Cumieres) nv
(RM) 50Ch/30Pn/20PM. This guys does it all Bio-D, with the horses tilling the land and everything. Consiered on of the top small, truly artisinal producers. The wine was toasty and rich with deep aromas on the nose with loads of earth and toast and yellow apple fruits ; great palate feel with a very soft and creamy texture ; finish is clean and fresh with more rich flavors, but no toast. 3/3
Approx $90.00 retail


Paul Clouet Champagne Brut Rose (Cramant/Bouzy/Essoyes/Chouilly) nv
(RM) 75Pn (12 vin rouge)/25Ch/20 reserve wine. Deep almost cranberry color; bright cherry fruit on the nose with some spice; loads of fruit on the palate with more red flavors; it can be either seen as delicate or falling a bit short on the finish depending on your mood and tastes; clean and chalky through the finish; dry. 1+/3
Approx $55.00 retail


George Laval Champagne Cumieres 1er Cru, 2004 (from magnum, 300 bottles produced)
(RM) 50Ch/50Pn. Toasty, smokey nose with fresh apricot and almost a honey nose (fresh spring honey); creamy palate with crisp snappy feel and great length. 2+/3
Approx $175.00 retail (if you can find it)


Bereche et Fils Champagne Extra Brut Crian de Ludes (Montagne de Reims) 2004 (from magnum)
(RM)(2g/L) 50Ch/50Pn-ish. Barrel fermented and aged; very delicate and bright on the nose with some great aromas of ginger and yellow apple and exotic spices; clean creamy bubble that creates a texture that is dry and layered with an almost chalky after-feel. Beauty of a wine with deep resonating feel and quality. Delicious. 3/3
Approx $250.00 retail (if you can find it)

Wine of the Day (2011-11-30) Champagne Barons de Rothschild Brut nv

This came across my table at lunch today and we indulged a bit in a glass or two to see if it was any good. The results here are a fairly well made Champagne, tasting as good everyday Champagne should but nothing overly complex or truly remarkable, bit light for those looking for a true Brut-style, but good. I was told that the price for retail is in the $90 dollar range, which would push this well beyond the normal nv Brut range and keep me from purchasing in the future - but should someone offer this to you, it is quite drinkable. Recommended (if you aren't paying for it).

Wine of the Day (2011-11-23) Castello Monaci Rosato Kreos Salento IGT, 2010

The Castello Monaci Rosato is from the far south of Italy in the region of Puglia (the heel of the boot), and is produced in the famous wine region of Salento, home of Salice Salentino. In fact, the grapes used for this wine are the same as those used for the famous DOC, these are Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera. The wines of Salice can be hearty and robust, a result of both the climate of the region (hot and dry) and the grapes that grow here (hearty and dark-skinned). By using the saignée method to make this rose, the result is a wonderfully flavorful, Euro-dry-style of rose that can pair with a wide variety of cuisine. Full raspberry aromas that are quite inviting, followed by a fuller feel on the palate than what a lot of drinkers might expect from a rose, this wine has character. I see this wine working with a lot of holiday dishes, but can fit just as easily on a summer picnic table. Fresh and dry with a long, clean finish - definitely recommended. About $15 retail - probably limited in availability as this is the end of rose season, but any good store should be able to locate - imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons.