Somm Summ 2012-10-30: Eric Chevalier's Dom de l'Aujardiere Fie Gris 2011
OK, not your everyday wine from your everyday local. Eric Chevalier has been sourcing and involved in the wine industry in the Loire for many years. But when his family's land was in need of taking over, he moved back to the family farm west of Nantes and began to restore the vineyards and produce exceptional, local and international varietals. The wine tasted in this case is the Fie Gris, a relative of Sauvignon also known as Sauvignon Gris. The grapes have a pinkish hue (hence the 'Gris' name), but the big drawback is the tiny quantities the vines produce compared to Sauvignon Blanc and other varietals. The Sauvignon Gris also has a more pronounced aromatic style, which accounts for its desirability.
Eric Chevalier has a small amount that he produces in his vineyards. The wine is aromatically different than anything you would expect from the Loire; not Sauvignon from the more Eastern regions, but not as minerally as the Muscadet that is found to the West of this region. It actually fits the middle quite well, literally. Smooth and round, clean wet-stone flavors with a richness that is not quite full like chardonnay, perhaps a bit more like Chenin. Great acid balance. Lovely wine.